Milk Paint is amazing.
Did you know there are so many things you can do with milk paint? So many finishes, even so many techniques?
It’s not a one size fits all kind of paint, because it still comes with it’s quirks, but I’ve been discovering that it’s so much easier to work with once you start to let your creative side come through and use those quirks to your advantage.
One of the things I have recently discovered using milk paint is that you can give it texture and color variation by simply mixing the formula in different ratios, rather than equal parts. I’m going to show you how I got this vintage, cottage-pink finish with a salt wash texture, simply by adding less water.
I picked this vintage barrel back chair, specifically for this project because it had been previously painted with a hideous, thick, glossy brown paint. There was brushstrokes everywhere, but it provided the perfect surface I needed for that washy texture. I lightly sanded with 180 grit paper to smooth it out just a bit, but also to give the majority of the paint a surface to stick to. I didn’t bother sanding the spindles or curvy parts as thats where I wanted the majority of my chipping to happen.
The color I chose for this chair is “Dusty Rose,” by Homestead House Paint Company. This color is just a bit hard to describe but I think it’s true color will differ based on the surface beneath it. When mixed, this color was a deep rusty orange color. It shocked me just a bit and for a second I thought I mixed up the wrong color, but the learning experience I had with this project is:
Milk Paint looks quite different mixed, than it does on your surface. Never trust the color of WET milk paint to be accurate.
You can see here in the photos above that the color is actually a sandy clay color with subtle hints of pink. It really does reflect a dusty rose color, but if you can’t picture it, think of a cactus flower in the desert after a sandstorm and that ought to convince you 🙂
Now I promised to tell you all about this super secret texture process with milk paint and my secret is : use less water for a chunkier look. Thats it. I painted the first layer with a normal half and half mix, and the second layer I added about three more tablespoons of paint and mixed it up in these mason jars. You will get thicker paint with some clumps, but thats ok…it adds to the layers.
The chipping occurred naturally around the spindles, but the flat surfaces were a little tricker because I wanted to keep the texture but add some distressing. I decided not to opt for my usual orbital and instead went for using these sanding pads since they are flexible but still durable. These work great for spindles and curvier forms.
I then hand rubbed Fusion’s Beeswax Finish over the chair. You can see once the wax sets in how much more the texture and layers really pop. And the chair chipped perfectly in all the right places without looking too overdone. Milk paint really is amazing…did I mention that?
I really love that I can see this chair in a beach cottage surrounded by chippy shiplap, sea glass and seashells. Colors like this are truly underestimated at how much they can bring a room or decor together. I’d love to see Dusty Rose make another appearance.
So the trick to getting milk paint to chip is less or no prep on project other than cleaning? Love the chippy look and want this look in my sleigh bed but have been putting it off. Thank you
Hi Gail! Milk Paint loves porous surfaces. So if you apply milk paint to a raw wood or porous surface, the less chance you have of chipping because it is absorbed into the wood. If you feel you need to sand a piece, you can still sand to smooth the surface, but use shellac to seal it if you want chipping. Chipping is a result of the paint not being able to penetrate the surface so it flakes away. Shellac or a previous finish provides a barrier for chipping. Be careful with no prep though…you could end up having all your milk paint chip away. A light sand with 220 grit and a light coat or two of shellac usually gives you the right look.